{"id":178,"date":"2010-09-11T09:10:00","date_gmt":"2010-09-11T13:10:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/2010\/09\/11\/more-softness\/"},"modified":"2020-01-09T02:08:55","modified_gmt":"2020-01-09T07:08:55","slug":"more-softness","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/more-softness\/","title":{"rendered":"More Softness"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Readers may remember my <a href=\"http:\/\/tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com\/2009\/09\/soft-jacket-completed.html\">last soft coat<\/a> which was the first prototype for a model which became very popular.  So when it was recently suggested that I might want to attend a certain event in Atlanta in the next few weeks, I decided it was as good an excuse as any to make another soft coat- they are particularly fond of soft, rounded shoulders in the deep south and I don&#8217;t have much clothing for that kind of weather.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/21977945@N02\/4979060691\/\" title=\"DB4 by jefferytailor, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm5.static.flickr.com\/4129\/4979060691_7216122bba_o.jpg?resize=288%2C432\" width=\"288\" height=\"432\" alt=\"DB4\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The coat has a self-cloth facing, and I used cotton pocketing for the yoke and trimming.  Bemberg in the sleeve.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/21977945@N02\/4979670134\/\" title=\"Yoke by jefferytailor, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm5.static.flickr.com\/4119\/4979670134_4fb65e7f67.jpg?resize=500%2C333\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" alt=\"Yoke\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>There is no haircloth or chest piece and no shoulder pad- only the front canvas and some light felt to cover it.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/21977945@N02\/4979062935\/\" title=\"Shoulder by jefferytailor, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm5.static.flickr.com\/4111\/4979062935_2bc08e21dd.jpg?resize=500%2C333\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" alt=\"Shoulder\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>This is how thick the shoulder construction is, which has been done in the &#8220;spalla camicia&#8221; style<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/21977945@N02\/4979063225\/\" title=\"Shoulder2 by jefferytailor, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm5.static.flickr.com\/4145\/4979063225_d29369a7c6.jpg?resize=500%2C333\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" alt=\"Shoulder2\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>which gives this soft, round, slouchy look.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/21977945@N02\/4979063363\/\" title=\"Shoulder3 by jefferytailor, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm5.static.flickr.com\/4150\/4979063363_28de637b4d.jpg?resize=500%2C333\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" alt=\"Shoulder3\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m sure somebody knows the name for this kind of jigger shank- I don&#8217;t know how to call it.  Anyone?<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/21977945@N02\/4979060911\/\" title=\"Jigger by jefferytailor, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm5.static.flickr.com\/4152\/4979060911_e73a6750c3.jpg?resize=500%2C333\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" alt=\"Jigger\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Since I won&#8217;t make many coats in this colour, I ordered the small 10m spools of silk buttonhole thread from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.tristan.bc.ca\/\">Tristan<\/a>, in BC, Canada.  As far as I know it is the only source in Canada for buttonhole silk in small quantities, and they are the exclusive North American distributor for <a href=\"http:\/\/www.cucirinitrestelle.it\/\">Tre Stelle<\/a>&#8216;s Bozzolo silk.  It has a nice sheen to it and is worth trying out.<\/p>\n<p>EDIT-  I got the following message on another post- We are a sister company to Tristan Italian threads. We are the US importers of Cucirini Tre Stelle thread from Milan, Itay. The Seta Bozollo silk is a 24 wt thread that comes on a 11 yd spool. Our shopping cart is www.carmenwarehouse.com or catalog is www.GilbreathThreads.com<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/21977945@N02\/4979061333\/\" title=\"Bozzolo by jefferytailor, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm5.static.flickr.com\/4105\/4979061333_7a1bc7c6fe.jpg?resize=500%2C333\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" alt=\"Bozzolo\"><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Readers may remember my last soft coat which was the first prototype for a model which became very popular. So when it was recently suggested<span class=\"read-more-link\"><a class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/more-softness\/\">Read More<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":439,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[146],"tags":[214,216,215],"class_list":["post-178","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-soft-tailoring","tag-buttonhole-thread","tag-soft-tailoring","tag-tristan-threads"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/4\/2010\/09\/softblue5.jpg?fit=500%2C333&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/178","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=178"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/178\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":443,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/178\/revisions\/443"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/439"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=178"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=178"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=178"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}