{"id":204,"date":"2009-10-26T20:11:00","date_gmt":"2009-10-27T00:11:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/2009\/10\/26\/rundschau-trousers\/"},"modified":"2009-10-26T20:11:00","modified_gmt":"2009-10-27T00:11:00","slug":"rundschau-trousers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/rundschau-trousers\/","title":{"rendered":"Rundschau trousers"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>On this latest suit, I decided to try a German draft that Schneidergott translated for me from the Rundschau.  I made a few minor changes to the draft itself, had quite a bit of fitting in the seat to do, but otherwise a rather painless fitting process.  The balance of the rear of the leg is different from my usual draft and I find it hangs straighter with less fuss and manipulation.  Observe the stripes along the side seam between this trouser and the previous one- you will notice some of the difference in the cut.  But this is draft definitely a keeper. Thanks SG!<\/p>\n<p>A little clarification- by draft, I do not mean a pre-made pattern, but a set of instructions for drafting according to one&#8217;s measurements.  It is understood that the  cutter will adjust the instructions according to the customer&#8217;s posture and stylistic choices.<\/p>\n<p>  At Jordan&#8217;s suggestion (IIRC) I did away with the rear pockets, but I&#8217;m not crazy about the look of it, even though it saves me time.<\/p>\n<p>Tomorrow I&#8217;ll try to find buttons, press the vest and coat, and get some more photos up.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/39673164@N07\/4047921589\/\" title=\"har pant back by Jeffery photos, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm4.static.flickr.com\/3523\/4047921589_4689cace47.jpg?resize=277%2C500\" width=\"277\" height=\"500\" alt=\"har pant back\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Rundschau side seam<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/39673164@N07\/4048665834\/\" title=\"Har pant side by Jeffery photos, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm3.static.flickr.com\/2752\/4048665834_aa61c6a03c.jpg?resize=260%2C500\" width=\"260\" height=\"500\" alt=\"Har pant side\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&#8220;My&#8221; side seam<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/39673164@N07\/3902178476\/\" title=\"trouser side front by Jeffery photos, on Flickr\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/farm3.static.flickr.com\/2641\/3902178476_d60a2816a5.jpg?resize=189%2C500\" width=\"189\" height=\"500\" alt=\"trouser side front\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Now to answer a few questions-<\/p>\n<p>Dukemati- Thank you!  Actually, the draft dates to 1954.  So recent  More recent than some but less recent than others&#8230;..<\/p>\n<p>Karen-<\/p>\n<p>And thank you, as well.  The knee is a little fuller than my usual draft, in the back only (about 3\/4&#8243;) but that&#8217;s it.  It&#8217;s the way the seat angle is pitched relative to the rest of the leg that is a little different, as evidenced by the stripes being more straight down the outside of the leg but continuing to taper to the hem.  I cut this knee more tapered than the original Rundschau draft, which is quite straight- the draft provides an almost straight line from fork to hem; I prefer to taper from the fork to the knee and then almost straight from the knee to the hem but that requires more ironwork than the original draft would.<\/p>\n<p>In response to Jem&#8217;s questions, I am pleased that you enjoy the blog and you can find a tutorial on making the flannel flower <a href=\"http:\/\/tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com\/2009\/03\/how-to-make-flannel-flower.html\">here<\/a>.  Unfortunately my schedule does not permit me to take on new clients right now, however the occasional flower is not out of the question \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>On this latest suit, I decided to try a German draft that Schneidergott translated for me from the Rundschau. I made a few minor changes<span class=\"read-more-link\"><a class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/rundschau-trousers\/\">Read More<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[172,165,175],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-204","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-harrisons","category-making-trousers","category-rundschau"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/204","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=204"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/204\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=204"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=204"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=204"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}