{"id":214,"date":"2009-09-24T17:40:00","date_gmt":"2009-09-24T21:40:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/2009\/09\/24\/softness-the-other-extreme\/"},"modified":"2009-09-24T17:40:00","modified_gmt":"2009-09-24T21:40:00","slug":"softness-the-other-extreme","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/softness-the-other-extreme\/","title":{"rendered":"Softness- the other extreme"},"content":{"rendered":"

The weather is turning so I am in the mood for new clothes but the flannel hasn’t come in yet. I’ve been eyeing a few jacketing lengths so I cut myself something on the other end of the spectrum; a true “spalla camicia” or shirt shoulder, the softest possible jacket in this light, soft dove colour with steel, oatmeal and rose check.<\/p>\n

\"check1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The spalla camicia is one of the typical neapolitan shoulders and generally has very little supporting it; as such, it can often look sloppy. Some even exaggerate the sloppiness, easing in extra folds of fullness which I find a little showy and unnecessary (which, considering my love of pagodas, is saying something). A short, wide sleeve cap is in order.<\/p>\n

\"Sleeve\"<\/a><\/p>\n

While some like to support this kind of construction to make it more suitable for suitings, I only make this kind of thing for soft, slouchy sport jackets, and as such I use no haircloth, no chest piece, no shoulder pad, no sleeve head, no wadding of any sort. The front canvas has a soft piece of wool felt to cover any possible scratchiness and to give just a bit of body, but other than that, nothing. Softness and lightness. The whole jacket is cut on the easy side, rather than being fitted, and will look a bit like a soft cardigan.<\/p>\n

\"soft<\/a><\/p>\n

I opened the shoulder about 5\/8″ to give a bit of forward pitch, and a slight manipulation of the cloth as well, but nothing like what will go into the pagoda shoulder which we will see soon, I hope. In this case, I have used a zig-zag machine to open the wedge. <\/p>\n

I still use a fairly small pad stitch on the lapel to give a nice, full roll.<\/p>\n

\"FELT\"<\/a><\/p>\n

It will be finished soon so I can get straight to work on the suit when the cloth comes in.<\/p>\n

I response to Lynn’s questions, yes, I zig-zag right along the cut line to keep the edges of the canvas from curling up. With finer cloth I put a piece of non-woven fusible on top to completely hide it since it can sometimes make visible impressions on the outside.<\/p>\n

As for the pattern, this would normally be a special pattern unto itself if I were in the habit of keeping basic patterns for myself, which I don’t. I like to experiment and try new things so I never cut off the same pattern twice when cutting my own garments- every time it is new. The basic principles remain for obtaining the desired silhouette but I always try to introduce new things to the mix in terms of drafting and construction. Obviously, at work, I keep a library of collars and pockets and lapels and things, but for my own stuff, it’s new every time.<\/p>\n

Besides, the lines are so different between a structured, rope-shouldered garment and a soft, spalla camicia, that it’s not really worth trying to adapt one pattern to become another.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The weather is turning so I am in the mood for new clothes but the flannel hasn’t come in yet. I’ve been eyeing a fewRead More<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[146],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-214","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-soft-tailoring"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/214","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=214"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/214\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=214"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=214"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=214"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}