{"id":261,"date":"2008-11-12T11:39:00","date_gmt":"2008-11-12T16:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/2008\/11\/12\/undercollars\/"},"modified":"2008-11-12T11:39:00","modified_gmt":"2008-11-12T16:39:00","slug":"undercollars","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/undercollars\/","title":{"rendered":"Undercollars"},"content":{"rendered":"

Looking at the undercollar of a jacket will reveal a lot about the quality of the jacket. A more in depth explanation will follow for the serious geeks, but the reader\u2019s digest version is this; <\/p>\n

There are several ways to make a collar, some better than others. At the top end it is sometimes difficult to distinguish between hand-made, machine made, etc. but the one generalization that can be made is that if you see zig-zag stitching along the edges of the collar (figures A & B), it is not the best type of construction construction. This is an example of a more economical way of producing a collar and is either just felt or fused felt but it is certainly not felt with linen padded to it as you would find in top-of-the-line garments.<\/p>\n

Let me clarify one thing though- it is not the stitch itself which is necessarily better or worse; the type of stitch used is an indicator of the way in which the collar is assembled and attached to the jacket, and THAT is where there are a lot of differing levels of quality.<\/p>\n

\"collars<\/a><\/p>\n

Here is a diagram of the types of stitches I will refer to in this post.<\/p>\n

\"COLLAR<\/a><\/p>\n

Here is a collar which has been machine padded. Many people (myself included) feel that there is no added benefit to padding by hand over machine- but that is the subject of another post. The stitching and tape is used to stabilize the roll line; some tailors will draw this tape, keeping it close to the neck, all depending on how they construct their collar. The stitching seen at G is a very good indicator that the collar has linen canvas padded to it- the padding at the edges will be slit open so that the seam allowances of the top collar can be inserted BETWEEN the felt and the canvas, making a nice flat collar without visible impressions. Also notice that I have begun to trim away the canvas at the edge- this is necessary to prevent the canvas from showing through and is quite time-consuming. Aside from the fact that padded collar canvas costs three times what just plain felt does, it is this trimming operation which is the impetus behind factories using only felt.<\/p>\n

\"collars<\/a><\/p>\n

In the photo below you see a collar made by Samulesohn- it is very difficult to make out the stitches at the edges of the collar but it is clear that they are not zig-zag stitches. The outer edges at C were done by machine, but one that closely resembles a hand-stitch. <\/p>\n

\"collars<\/a><\/p>\n

The AMF machine which makes a stitch which is virtually indistinguishable from a hand stitch is pretty hard to find these days, so some factories are using a blindstitch-type machine to fell the collar. Same general procedure but different stitch like the one shown at D. Mechanically it is the same as the AMF stitch or hand-felling, but is unattractive. That said, you don\u2019t usually go around with your collar up so who cares?<\/p>\n

The little turn-under shown at E has been hand-finished and is the traditional way of finishing a collar, giving a smoother, flatter finish. <\/p>\n

\"cOLLAR<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Looking at the undercollar of a jacket will reveal a lot about the quality of the jacket. A more in depth explanation will follow forRead More<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[100,204],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-261","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-buttonholes","category-collars"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/261","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=261"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/261\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=261"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=261"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/robertjeffery.us\/tuttofattoamano\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=261"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}