Since my next suit will have a softer shoulder than I usually wear, Lynn has asked for some details. The drafting of the shoulder seam itself will depend on the amount of padding, if any, used. I have sloping shoulders so I will use some padding and structure, but it will be a much more commercial shoulder than the usual pagoda and rope. For a pagoda shoulder I will start with a straighter line andRead More
Category: shoulders
Karen asks about how to construct a pagoda shoulder, but first, a bit of background. Initially known as a “natural” shoulder as it followed the natural curved formed by the hollow between the clavicle and the acromion, the term has been appropriated to denote the round, sloped shoulder seen on Ivy League suits of type sold by Brooks Brothers, Southwick, Paul Stuart, and the like. If we no longer see the pagoda shoulder very often,Read More