An Approach to Haute Couture at Balenciaga

Long-time readers will be aware of the huge influence Cristobal Balenciaga has had on my work and will not be surprised at my excitement about the upcoming masterclass being given at the Balenciaga Museum in Spain. Registration ends July 18 and the form can be found here


A few years ago I had posted about the dreaded “divots” but apparently that post has long since disappeared and people have been asking for it. A fit defect dubbed “divots” by Styleforum can be seen in the top part of the sleeve and most people make the mistaken assumption (or assertion) that the jacket shoulder is too wide for the person. It is not. Here is an example of a divot. And here areRead More


A few months ago I was contacted by Dirnelli who had seen something he thought might be of interest to me. A handmade shirt. And before I go much further let me preface by telling recent readers that one of the original intents of this blog was to explore the merits, myths and mystique of handmade clothing, with a particular focus on suits, sport coats and trousers. There is a lot of romance surrounding theRead More

An Explanation?

A story, translated (and slightly condensed) from the website of the tailor who made the suit we most recently dissected. If i recall correctly, about ten or fifteen years ago I was visited by a client who was not particularly elegant but who was wearing a suit from a very famous and expensive brand. Despite the expensive suit, he seemed to me to be a mannequin in grey chalk stripes. The client, who was givenRead More

Menefreghismo, part 2- The Guts

If you missed the previous post about the mystery disaster suit, go back and start there. This week we look a bit at the cut and the inside of the coat. First impression? This is very reminiscent of old Anderson and Sheppard cutting. Either the original owner had a very tiny waist, or, more likely, this was cut for a normal person but a liberal amount of drape was cut in the chest and blades,Read More


I struggle to understand this garment. I truly do. Voxsartoria sent me a suit that he had acquired from the original owner. The coat was made in Naples by a fairly well-known and sought-after tailor, and the trousers were made by an even more well-known trouser maker, also in Naples. It is fairly common practice to farm out work like this. First, a look at some of the external, cosmetic things. There is so muchRead More

Sprezzatura 2.0

Wikipedia defines Sprezzatura as follows: an Italian word originating from Baldassare Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier, where it is defined by the author as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”. I find it somewhat amusing that the writer should use a foreign (French) word, nonchalance, to help define another foreign word, butRead More