Buffery- Flex Uniforms

I am married to a former competitive bodybuilder. Buying clothing has always been a problem, so we decided to try to solve it. We started a clothing line on the side. Most products aimed at athletes and bodybuilders take themselves So. Very. Seriously. We didn’t want to do that. We wanted to be a little fun, a little silly, a little snarky, more than a little inspired by the comic book characters that inspired manyRead More

Discover Artifex: Common Threads Podcast

I was recently contacted by an intriguing young man who wanted to speak with me for his podcast about tailors. I am usually leery of such things because I find most of these kinds of interviews quite dry and formulaic, but when we actually connected to plan for it, I found he was an enthusiastic and passionate person who had spent a few years in Italy learning the craft and meeting some very interesting people,Read More

Making Displacement Maps in Photoshop for raised graphics in Clo3D

The rubberized graphic logo I created for my IACDE jacket submission was made using a displacement map done in Photoshop. It’s the most basic kind of map and learning how to use maps can be very useful for 3D modeling. I start with a basic graphic and convert it to a png file with a transparent background The I create the displacement map and give it some blur to soften the transition from low toRead More

An Approach to Haute Couture at Balenciaga

Long-time readers will be aware of the huge influence Cristobal Balenciaga has had on my work and will not be surprised at my excitement about the upcoming masterclass being given at the Balenciaga Museum in Spain. Registration ends July 18 and the form can be found here


A few years ago I had posted about the dreaded “divots” but apparently that post has long since disappeared and people have been asking for it. A fit defect dubbed “divots” by Styleforum can be seen in the top part of the sleeve and most people make the mistaken assumption (or assertion) that the jacket shoulder is too wide for the person. It is not. Here is an example of a divot. And here areRead More


A few months ago I was contacted by Dirnelli who had seen something he thought might be of interest to me. A handmade shirt. And before I go much further let me preface by telling recent readers that one of the original intents of this blog was to explore the merits, myths and mystique of handmade clothing, with a particular focus on suits, sport coats and trousers. There is a lot of romance surrounding theRead More

An Explanation?

A story, translated (and slightly condensed) from the website of the tailor who made the suit we most recently dissected. If i recall correctly, about ten or fifteen years ago I was visited by a client who was not particularly elegant but who was wearing a suit from a very famous and expensive brand. Despite the expensive suit, he seemed to me to be a mannequin in grey chalk stripes. The client, who was givenRead More