OK so here are the finished garments. The navy is Harrisons and the charcoal is J&J Minnis. Aside from the differences in lapel, the Minnis was drafted using Whife, with no side body (which I think contributes to that wobbliness on the front) and the Harrisons was drafted using the Mitchell system. Each system has its strengths and weaknesses, but I definitely vote for separate side body- it’s far easier to get a good fitRead More
Category: Harrisons
On this latest suit, I decided to try a German draft that Schneidergott translated for me from the Rundschau. I made a few minor changes to the draft itself, had quite a bit of fitting in the seat to do, but otherwise a rather painless fitting process. The balance of the rear of the leg is different from my usual draft and I find it hangs straighter with less fuss and manipulation. Observe the stripesRead More
Fun thing about blogging- I get to rant every once in a while. Well, rant and praise. I have been flirting with English cloth for a little while, with some interesting results. Since I don’t buy significant quantities of it (I buy Italian usually) I am going through an agent who represents a number of English mills. I bought a piece of flannel from his own stock- a charcoal flannel from J & J Minnis;Read More
I don’t know why I have always hated the term “pagoda shoulders”, but I do. Spalla insellata sounds a little better if you speak Italian but sounds pretentious to those who don’t. Well, whatever. But to something more important. I think that the survival of our craft depends not only on the propagation of the technique but also the survival of our suppliers. It’s getting harder and harder to find the necessary stuff for makingRead More