Made by Hand, Machine, or 3D?
Like so many parts of the garment, pockets seem like simple, insignificant little things but in reality are quite complex and pose certain challenges to cutter and tailor alike. One of the first considerations is whether there are stripes or checks to be matched. If you look at most RTW (ready-to-wear), and even some bespoke garments, the lines of a pocket flap will match the jacket nicely below the flap, but seldom above the flap.Read More
I originally intended to go work at one of the “atelier tailleur” at the haute couture in Paris; I had studied many of the techniques of the couture and have always found it fascinating, and sometimes I let it bring some whimsy to my work. This is a recent suit, and when I got it done, I had some material left over. I like detail and accessories but not necessarily over the top, so IRead More
Also known as the taschino (little pocket), the barchetta (little boat), a hand-made breast pocket is easy to spot. The first giveaway is the presence of a micro zig-zag stitch or straight stitch along the edge of the welt- this has been done by machine. A hand-felled pocket will have no visible stitching along the edge, and may have a row of pick-stitching about 1/4″ from the side. The second, more subtle clue is thatRead More
I saw an interview with an executive of a well-respected suit manufacturer who proudly stated that all of their suits were cut by hand as this is more consistent than cutting by machine. I can’t disagree more! Computer-aided design and cutting technology has made huge advances in the last ten years and pattern-making & cutting is now so much faster and more precise than ever. Ask any human to cut a perfectly straight line andRead More
There has been a lot of discussion about sartorial excellence, hand-made versus machine-made, and how to spot the difference. Very often the opinions I hear expressed are misguided at best, or meant to convince that one garment or technique is better than another to justify a sale or a high price. True, hand-tailored garments are generally of higher quality than their machine-made counterparts, but it is not a hard-and-fast rule. I have seen sloppily madeRead More
