Men of the Cloth

Vicki Vasilopoulos’ long-awaited film has arrived! The Custom Tailors and Designers Association is hosting a men’s wear industry cocktail reception and exclusive preview screening of MEN OF THE CLOTH for retailers and buyers on Sunday January 26th at the beautiful Auditorium on Broadway, just north of Columbus Circle, NYC. Vicki will participate in a Q & A following the screening; contact info@menoftheclothfilm.com for more details or you can buy tickets here.

Shaping the underarm

I was discussing techniques with a tailor by email and was having trouble describing something so I thought “blog post”. We typically find two types of tailored sleeve in men’s suiting- English tailors often cut what is known as a 50-50 sleeve, whose under sleeve is roughly the same width as the top sleeve. More common today is a sleeve with what is known as a “false forearm” because the forearm seam is offset fromRead More

The Anatomy of a Suit, Plus Gimp

The Anatomy of a Suit is an exhibit now showing at the London Museum and apparently dissects suits, some historical, to show the innards.  While they sadly did not appear to proof their material, it would still be an interesting thing to see.  Running until June 2014 Also, a reader points out a new source for Agreman gimp, my gimp of choice for hand made buttonholes. This can be bought at WAWAK sewing supplies. ThanksRead More

Henry Poole- an update

A few years ago I dissected a pair of Henry Poole coats and was somewhat surprised to find that the lapels and collars had been padded by machine. Rory Duffy, who trained in coat making at Poole’s, recently visited with his former master and had some news. Owner and President Angus Cundey has since insisted that all of their garments be hand-padded in order to maintain the traditions of Savile Row tailoring. While I haveRead More