A padded lapel

Lapel Belly vs Roll- what does all this mean?

“Belly” and “roll” are terms used to describe the lapels on a jacket and there seems to be some confusion about what they mean. When we say a lapel has a belly to it, we mean there is a curve in the edge of the lapel as it approaches the button. The opposite would be a straight edge. There is a notion that some lapels are given a concave edge but this is just anRead More

Brioni vs. Samuelsohn- the hand-sewn lapel

Going back a bit again to the Brioni coat. This blogger may need Ritalin. A curiosity here- the top collar is cross-stitched to the lapel by hand. What is a bit curious is that normally the top collar goes on AFTER the facing, but in this case it is clearly put on first. The facing must then be drawn on by hand. Which is curious in a factory setting. You may also notice that IRead More

What, exactly, is pad stitching?

We hear the terms `pad stitching` and `padded lapels` frequently but not everybody understands the significance. One of the important principles of tailoring, and which distinguishes tailoring from ordinary `flat`sewing, has to do with the fact that concentric arcs or circles become longer as they radiate from the centre. In easier terms, picture the starting line of a circular race track- the starting point of each lane is in a different spot because the outerRead More