Down with DXF!

A post for industry nerds. I’m beta testing Accumark V10 which will be released to the public soon. We have been using V8 and a lot of the major interface changes were made in V9 so there are a lot of big changes for me. But I just came across the most exciting new feature. In the past, in order to share files between systems like Lectra and Gerber one had to convert files toRead More

The first of Fall

The first of our new half-canvas samples for Fall 2015 start coming off the production line. There is still a lot of work to be done, but considering where we were six months ago I think it’s a decent start.

A View Into The Engine Of The Textile Industry

We got some new machines in our factory last week- some state-of-the-art sleeve setting machines from Durkopp-Adler in Germany. Anyone who has ever attempted to hang a tailored sleeve knows it’s probably one of the most difficult jobs, if not the most difficult. These machines are created to help an operator sew in ten to twenty pairs of sleeves PER HOUR. Fancy things, these machines. In a timely coincidence, the German chapter of the InternationalRead More

Bringing Something New To The Cutting Table

About ten years ago, one of my interlining suppliers showed me a new product they were developing. At the time there were concerns (principally in Europe, where this company was located) about the health effects of cellphone radiation. There are still such concerns, as reports continue to surface about exposure to wireless devices. This new product was meant to protect from such radiation. I, however, had another idea about it. My mother may have taughtRead More

Shears, continued…

The shears being made in Italy have been cast and are ready for grinding. Then they will be tempered, then the holes drilled for the adjustment screw, then tuning, sharpening, plating, and final assembly. Of course, they are behind schedule, but some things are worth waiting for. Good shears are one of those things.

Padded lapels by machine

These days I’m working on a big project, converting a men’s suit factory from an entirely fused construction to a half-canvas construction. In fact, to be more technically correct, it should really be called a 2/3 canvas since the coat front we will be using is pretty much identical to a full canvas front but the lower 1/3 of the canvas is omitted. To do this conversion, and generally to bring the factory up toRead More

Pattern Design Analyst- a new blog worth checking out

Just as some of my favorite internet reading is being wound down (RJdM will be sorely missed, until he finds a new home), a new and worthwhile appearance in the blogosphere: patterndesignanalyst.com Written by a senior member of one of the most recognized menswear teams in the world, and someone I have known for almost 20 years, he will offer a fresh new perspective on the discussion of the technical side of menswear, beginning withRead More