I’ve posted a number of videos made by Andrew Yamato showing the work of Rory Duffy, which I enjoyed.
Last weekend I was working a show in Brooklyn, where both Rory and Andrew are located, so I had the great opportunity to meet them both.
Rory is Savile-Row trained and I have spent most of my career in the RTW industry so we were sharing notes, which proved to be very interesting. Rory provided some fascinating insight into the behind-the-scenes workings of Savile Row which I really enjoyed, and I gave him some pointers on production-ready sleeve patterns. I loved one observation he made that “Rock of Eye [a very loose pattern making technique] is only good for those who don’t actually have to sew up their own cutting. I pity the tailors who do have to sew that up.” I quite agree.
Talking about drafting is one thing, however, and doing is quite another, so Rory pulled out a roll of pattern paper and started drafting. Then it was my turn to draft. I think we both learned a few things, and if nothing else, we had some fun.
This sort of thing should happen more often, and if it does, hopefully Andrew will be able to get it on film.
you're looking a lot younger there mr d!
i think there's always a lot to share between the ready to wear and bespoke, especially in this age of faster production and short cuts. any chance of some more details of what differed between the drafts you made with mr duffy?