Like so many parts of the garment, pockets seem like simple, insignificant little things but in reality are quite complex and pose certain challenges to cutter and tailor alike. One of the first considerations is whether there are stripes or checks to be matched. If you look at most RTW (ready-to-wear), and even some bespoke garments, the lines of a pocket flap will match the jacket nicely below the flap, but seldom above the flap.
Also known as the taschino (little pocket), the barchetta (little boat), a hand-made breast pocket is easy to spot. The first giveaway is the presence of a micro zig-zag stitch or straight stitch along the edge of the welt- this has been done by machine. A hand-felled pocket will have no visible stitching along the edge, and may have a row of pick-stitching about 1/4″ from the side. The second, more subtle clue is that