Made by Hand, Machine, or 3D?
Readers may remember my last soft coat which was the first prototype for a model which became very popular. So when it was recently suggested that I might want to attend a certain event in Atlanta in the next few weeks, I decided it was as good an excuse as any to make another soft coat- they are particularly fond of soft, rounded shoulders in the deep south and I don’t have much clothing forRead More
Thanks to Mark for pointing this one out. Discuss.
I got called out for neglecting my blog. And it’s true. I’ve been a bit lazy lately. But in my defense, I moved, and then went on vacation for 3 weeks, so the forensics have fallen behind. However, I am now in discussions about acquiring several pieces to chop up, and it will be time to think about some fall clothes soon, so I’ll be back in the swing of things soon. I hope everyoneRead More
I noticed some discussion on Noveporte about the positioning of stripes on the edge of a lapel and thought I would give my opinion on the matter here. Because of the way I was trained, things like this just jump out at me, and strike me as being a bit careless. I understand that to others it may not be important. Notice the stripe line vis-a-vis the edge of the lapel. People will point outRead More
For those who may have missed it, Chris Despos left an interesting comment on the Caraceni post that I am going to reprint. Those outside the U.S. may not know that Despos is considered one of the top bespoke tailors over here, so his input is greatly appreciated. Even more appreciated is his direct insight on the subject which is why I am reposting his comment here. Jeffery, Interesting post. I worked 3 years withRead More
Sometimes I hear about things being done that I find a little hard to fathom; pad stitching a chest with a blindstitch machine is one of those things. I had heard rumors of it, but I had never seen it before. Until now. And twice in one week. Don’t get me wrong. I am not against the idea of machining a chest- with the right equipment you can do a great job of it. ARead More
It finally came!! SF member Vaux le Vicompte kindly donated our latest specimen, a DB he had made by A. Caraceni in Milan- you can see images from some of his sartorial adventures at his lovely blog here- legrimod.blogspot.com. (merci, Monsieur le Vicompte!) The following is excerpted from Wikipedia; Caraceni was founded in Rome in 1913 by the father of Italian tailoring, Domenico Caraceni. At one point in the 1930s, Domenico and his family operatedRead More
I didn’t get a chance to photograph the blazer before shipping it, sorry. To make it up to some of you (well, at least to Kim who has been begging for this for a while) some thoughts on setting sleeves. Not a full tutorial, but just a few pointers, this time a woman’s overcoat. (Cheating, she says- those sleeves are easy!) This will appeal mostly to homesewers, so if that’s not you, check back soonRead More
Another donation came this week; thank you, Justin. In previous posts we have looked at the construction methods of some of the best-known makers on Savile Row and elsewhere, this time we look at one of the less well-known though no less highly-respected SR houses, Welsh and Jefferies. I, myself, know little of them other than the fact that they have been in business a little over 100 years, and recently acquired the firm LesleyRead More
I’ve been asked about my buttonholes a few times, mainly by people wanting to know how to do them. There’s a good set of printed instructions here but I have a few things to add to it. The type of cloth will dictate how narrow a bite you can take- loose cloth requires a wider bite, tight cloth you can get away with a narrower bite. It makes a difference in the appearance. Consider theRead More