More Softness

Readers may remember my last soft coat which was the first prototype for a model which became very popular. So when it was recently suggested that I might want to attend a certain event in Atlanta in the next few weeks, I decided it was as good an excuse as any to make another soft coat- they are particularly fond of soft, rounded shoulders in the deep south and I don’t have much clothing for that kind of weather.


The coat has a self-cloth facing, and I used cotton pocketing for the yoke and trimming. Bemberg in the sleeve.


There is no haircloth or chest piece and no shoulder pad- only the front canvas and some light felt to cover it.


This is how thick the shoulder construction is, which has been done in the “spalla camicia” style


which gives this soft, round, slouchy look.


I’m sure somebody knows the name for this kind of jigger shank- I don’t know how to call it. Anyone?


Since I won’t make many coats in this colour, I ordered the small 10m spools of silk buttonhole thread from Tristan, in BC, Canada. As far as I know it is the only source in Canada for buttonhole silk in small quantities, and they are the exclusive North American distributor for Tre Stelle‘s Bozzolo silk. It has a nice sheen to it and is worth trying out.

EDIT- I got the following message on another post- We are a sister company to Tristan Italian threads. We are the US importers of Cucirini Tre Stelle thread from Milan, Itay. The Seta Bozollo silk is a 24 wt thread that comes on a 11 yd spool. Our shopping cart is or catalog is


20 Replies to “More Softness

  1. I love this jacket and I like the patch pockets. ahhh… the translator, translating into Spanish the correct name for the "stem" of the button: VÁSTAGO.

  2. It's not a style I like and I don't myself think that the unpadded shoulder does anyone any favours. But you have got some real shape into it and it is beautifully finished. Hope you enjoy it.

  3. I think it's gorgeous. Beautiful workmanship, as always, Jeff. Thanks for giving us a peek into your fabulous work!!!


  4. Oh yeah, almost forgot: Hope you have a great time in the A.T.L.! Looks like you're ready for a mint julep whilst lounging on the veranda.


  5. Jeffery:

    A smart-looking coat for summer with a lovely, subtle weave. Regarding the so-called jigger shank,
    why not call it an S3, for summer silk shank.


  6. This jacket stuck me as a very classic jacket that epitomizes the southern comfort fashions. I wish I was a a smaller frame to get away with a jacket like this, it just looks so comfortable.

  7. This jacket is incredible. I love the elegance of the lapel roll and the minimalism of the interior construction. The work of a true artisan.

    Can you speak about your shirt? I noticed how upright the collar stands. Does the collar have interior buttons to keep it standing, or is it just cut that nicely? Where do you have your shirts made?

    Also, I am relatively new from this blog. What is your background? I couldn't find much insight from your blog profile. Are you a bespoke tailor here in the United States? What is your background in the industry. The level of your work is certainly indicative of someone with great skill and much experience. Please enlighten me!


    Kirby Allison's Hanger Project

    You tailor your clothes.
    Now tailor your hangers.

  8. Jeffery, could do a Post on the differences between spalla camicia and and usual shoulder-construction — not just how spalla camicia is generally done, but how the details are done and the consequences thereof.

  9. Thank you.

    There are no buttons on the shirt collar- there are metal collar stays, however. This shirt was made by Hemrajani, and was a copy of the shirts that Ascot Chang makes for me.

    The spalla camicia post will be an interesting one to do, next time I make one for myself.


  10. Hi,

    great jacket!! i was wondering if you could tell me how much ease there is in the sleeve head, and have you used any wadding or canvassing in the sleeve head at all? it looks so beautifully smooth.

  11. Thanks. There is about 5/8" in the top of the sleeve, hardly anything at all. There is no wadding or canvas- only the seam allowance of the coat front extends- you can see a faint ridge.

  12. Claire Shaeffer shows a similar shank in her Couture book, and says it is used at YSL; she calls it a "braided stem"

  13. Oh, I only found your blog yesterday and I feel that I have died and gone to tailoring/sewing heaven!!!!!

    I am always trying hard to hone my skills and I am looking at your work, as I work on my first Chanel Jacket……….for my teenage daughter, and then one for me.

    Not only your buttonholes, but all of your work is just……..well, exquisite.

    If you live in the US and are ever in the U.K. you should do some master classes ………..I would walk over hot coal for the chance to sit and work a buttonhole or two and learn from such a Master.

    To die for and then some!!

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