DB, Minnis

Another DB

Posted on R. Jeffery DiduchAuthor R. Jeffery Diduch

It got really chilly this week. I leave the house around 7 am and it’s particularly nippy at that hour (especially on a Vespa) so I decided to break out some flannel- something I had made this summer and was just waiting for the right weather for it.

WAWN4_1

WAWN4

The cloth is from Minnis, number 0300.

EDIT

Thanks for all your wonderful comments.

JC- I’ll post trouser shots next time I wear it, which might not be for a while if the weather starts cooperating again.

Jeff- It will only wrinkle if I fall off, which I don’t 🙂

Detlef- not just in a photo, but also in a very light colour, which shows up all the little defects, much more than a dark suit

Jordan, you may be right, but I already have this (but in a vastly softer, lighter 9 1/2 ounce Italian flannel!)
Photobucket
So it was an about-face from that. Not that I disliked that- not at all. My dog, apparently did, though. She ate the flower when she was a puppy.

Anonymous- I have been sewing for about 30 years now.

Related posts:

A Look Under the Hood- Chanel
Brioni vs. Samuelsohn- the hand-sewn lapel
Dugdale Brothers

29 Replies to “Another DB”

  3. Bravo, Jeffery! A truly gorgeous medium grey flannel suit for fall, well-cut and beautifully detailed.
    Further, the height and style of the shirt collar are a perfect balance for the ensemble.

    JMB

  9. Knowing that any, even the tiniest imperfection will show in a photo, this must be über-perfect!
    🙂

    But you'd sure need more than a flannel suit to ride a Vespa in our neck of the woods…

  11. Surprised that no one has mentioned the meticulous attention given to the shoulder/sleeve join, the narrow sleeves themselves and the choice of classic bosom hip pockets, which gives the suit a certain formality that is acceptable for the office or country. With a plain wool flannel this light in color, I suspect most tailors would have opted for flap hip pockets with a ticket out flap above; but, then, Jeffery is not most tailors and has his own vision of how a beautiful suit should be made. From front to back–love those deep side vents–this is one helluva bespoke suit!

    JMB

  14. beautiful. the workmanship looks absolutely amazing. out of curiosity, how long did it take you to make that, from the drafting stage?

  18. How wide are the lapels on that single breasted? They look perfect. Do you try to keep the lapel widths similar to the widths of your ties?

  19. I am based in Montreal, however I am not able to take any more work on at this time.

    Christopher- thank you. The Sb lapels are 2 3/4". Actually I cut my lapel widths according to my moods- that was intended to be a fashion garment rather than a more classic one, thus the narrow width and high button stance. And I buy my ties to balance my lapel width.

    J

  20. Hi Jeff!
    You've been sewing for thirty years? Shucks, you must've started sewing right from the womb!!! You LOOK thirty!!! 😉

    Kim

  22. Jeffrey, Are you using one particular draft for your jackets or do you try out different drafts? Obviously every draft needs to be modified for an individual, but I was just wondering if you found that a particular draft gives a more satisfying result for you.
    Terri

  24. Terri-

    I never cut for myself the same way twice, and I never make up the same way twice; I use myself as an experimental lab to try out new things. Sometimes they work. Sometimes they don't. This way I am always learning, and I have been developing a drafting system of my own over the years, since I have never found any that is completely to my liking. I think most of us do that.

    Kirby- is it my closet or my hangers that really interest you? 🙂

    J

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