Made by Hand, Machine, or 3D?
Readers may remember my last soft coat which was the first prototype for a model which became very popular. So when it was recently suggested that I might want to attend a certain event in Atlanta in the next few weeks, I decided it was as good an excuse as any to make another soft coat- they are particularly fond of soft, rounded shoulders in the deep south and I don’t have much clothing forRead More
Now that I’m done the jacket, I should really shorten those shirt sleeves…. Cloth 12 oz 100% wool by Reda (same Italian mill that did my drape jacket cloth). No chest piece, no sleeve head, no wadding, no shoulder pad, mother of pearl buttons. Whereas more structured shoulders have the sleeve seam allowances opened or turned toward the sleeve, in this case, like a shirt, the seam allowance is turned toward the body and pickRead More
The weather is turning so I am in the mood for new clothes but the flannel hasn’t come in yet. I’ve been eyeing a few jacketing lengths so I cut myself something on the other end of the spectrum; a true “spalla camicia” or shirt shoulder, the softest possible jacket in this light, soft dove colour with steel, oatmeal and rose check. The spalla camicia is one of the typical neapolitan shoulders and generally hasRead More
Having worn the drape coat a bit I have noticed one thing about the comfort- it is markedly more comfortable in the chest, but that has nothing to do with the drape allowance (actually, the drape in the chest bugs me a little when I move my arm forward). Drape and soft tailoring have often been confused and I am inclined to think that the softness of the construction has much more to do withRead More