If you missed the previous post about the mystery disaster suit, go back and start there. This week we look a bit at the cut and the inside of the coat. First impression? This is very reminiscent of old Anderson and Sheppard cutting. Either the original owner had a very tiny waist, or, more likely, this was cut for a normal person but a liberal amount of drape was cut in the chest and blades,Read More
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I struggle to understand this garment. I truly do. Voxsartoria sent me a suit that he had acquired from the original owner. The coat was made in Naples by a fairly well-known and sought-after tailor, and the trousers were made by an even more well-known trouser maker, also in Naples. It is fairly common practice to farm out work like this. First, a look at some of the external, cosmetic things. There is so muchRead More
Wikipedia defines Sprezzatura as follows: an Italian word originating from Baldassare Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier, where it is defined by the author as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”. I find it somewhat amusing that the writer should use a foreign (French) word, nonchalance, to help define another foreign word, butRead More
The shears I ordered in the fall finally came! Handmade in a limited number, these things are beautiful! Now to decide what I’m going to cut first with them… Thanks to Isaac for organizing this!
Vicki Vasilopoulos is bringing her documentary, Men of the Cloth back to Chicago. Advance tickets to the May 7th screening are required, as they will not be available at the door, and can be reserved here
A post for industry nerds. I’m beta testing Accumark V10 which will be released to the public soon. We have been using V8 and a lot of the major interface changes were made in V9 so there are a lot of big changes for me. But I just came across the most exciting new feature. In the past, in order to share files between systems like Lectra and Gerber one had to convert files toRead More
The first of our new half-canvas samples for Fall 2015 start coming off the production line. There is still a lot of work to be done, but considering where we were six months ago I think it’s a decent start.
Just as some of my favorite internet reading is being wound down (RJdM will be sorely missed, until he finds a new home), a new and worthwhile appearance in the blogosphere: patterndesignanalyst.com Written by a senior member of one of the most recognized menswear teams in the world, and someone I have known for almost 20 years, he will offer a fresh new perspective on the discussion of the technical side of menswear, beginning withRead More
There is a discussion going on in another part of the internet and a question was asked which someone felt I may be able to answer. I would rather not wade in to that mess of a discussion, but the question still deserves a bit of an answer. For serious clothing nerds only. The question revolves around job titles in men’s tailored clothing, a business which is, in some respects, stuck in a bit ofRead More
I am often asked where people can go who wish to learn tailoring and I don’t often have much to tell them. There is so little by way of educational material available to the aspiring tailor, and my feelings on this are mixed. I really do think it’s a craft that is best learnt at the hands of an experienced teacher so the few books available should be used as guides for someone undergoing anRead More