The next suit to be dissected is an old bespoke number; made back in 1992, it has clearly been worn. Hard.
There is evidence of the waist having been let out
but more telling is this- the owner wore right through the knee lining.
If I look at the areas of the garment which show the most stress, namely the hem of the trouser (including the inside), the sleeve hem and the seat area, this will give me an idea of how well this particular cloth performed.
THe hem of the trouser is in almost perfect condition
even on the inside
The sleeve hem shows almost no signs of wear
and neither does the seat of the trouser.
It is quite safe to assume that this is a sturdy, English cloth. But what is surprising about this particular cloth is how fine it is.
That’s right, Super 150s.
One of the common myths among the iGentry is that cloths of high super-numbers (which is an indication of how fine the fibers that were used to weave the cloth are, measured in microns) are too fragile and won’t hold up to wear. While some cloths (notably Italian cloth) are made up with the intent of being very fine, soft and lightweight, and thus are more fragile, it is not necessarily true that all cloths bearing high super-numbers will be fragile. This garment being a fine example (in every respect).
So when evaluating the merits of a particular cloth, please do not fall into the ill-informed trap of dismissing a cloth merely because it is made up from super-fine yarns and must, therefore, be too fragile; let your tailor, who knows how various types of cloth handle and perform, guide you instead.